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Troubleshooting
So how do I get started in candlemaking?
Candlemaking
is an easy and rewarding hobby. But it can be stressful and
frustrating if you don't know what you're doing. My advice to those
who want to try their hand at candlemaking is to keep it simple at first.
Don't spend a lot of money, and you don't need
much to get started. But you should buy quality materials and supplies that
will make you good-looking candles and make your effort worthwhile.
The most common reason is poor quality fragrance oil. If you are using a scent "block" or perfume, or a fragrance that isn't suitable for candles then you will have no scent throw. Often you will also find that craft store fragrance oils are not 100% quality which means your scent throw won't be 100% quality. Logical huh! You need to use the very best fragrance oils. See my supplier reviews for more information.
This is a long explanation on scents because scent can be the most expensive additive in candlemaking. Many oils not specifically made for Candle making may smell strong at first when the candle is newly made but slowly lose its scent. You need to use a scents that is specifically made for candle making as they hold their scent over time. If you are looking for quality fragrance oils, try these suppliers first.
It is not worth buying the "cheap" wax from grocery stores. This often works out more costly in the long run because to produce good quality candles, you need quality supplies. Try any of the quality suppliers I have listed.
Wax shrinks as it cools, away from the mould and forms a well around the wick. This is a normal occurence in making all types of candles. Poke the candle with a skewer or knitting needle to release surface tension, be careful not to disturb any designs you may have made on the candle surface. It is important to relieve this tension, as cavities can form on the sides of the candle. Refill the well as the candle cools.
Wax was poured at too cool a temperature. Wax can cool rapidly when removed from heat. Leave the thermometer in the melting pot until right before you pour and make sure you are pouring between 180° and 190°F.
Additives were not completely dissolved. It might be necessary to heat plastic additives separately on direct heat (be very careful!).
A good method is to melt additives first in the melting pot and then add wax. Remember to stir well so additives will blend completely with your wax.
Air bubbles can be nasty little beggars!! They are caused by pouring too quickly, not tapping the sides of the mold to bring the bubbles to the surface and the candles cooling too quickly. This can be from working in a room that is too hot. Make sure your room is well ventilated, pour your wax slowly and tap the sides of the mold after pouring.
Wax was poured too hot and you may have damaged the mold. Check the
maximum temperature for your particular mold. Certain plastic style molds are not suitable for temperatures over 180°F. If the candle
cannot be removed by gentle prying, place it in the refrigerator for no more than an hour. The candle surface may be marred, and if the inside of the mold was damaged, subsequent candles will have the same surface marks. You can prevent this by using mold release or spraying a small amount of vegetable oil on the inside of the mould before pouring.
This can happen by using too much stearic acic, but the most common reason for this is that the first layer has cooled too much. Try using less stearine pour your second layer before the first has set completely and make sure that you are pouring at the correct temperature for your wax.
This is caused by cooling the candle too fast. It happens when you place a candle in a water bath or refridgerator to speed the cooling process and then repouring with hot wax. Try leaving it at room temperature to set.
There is more than likely water in your candle somehow, either from water in the wax when you made the candle or trapped in the wick from a water bath. To avoid this in future, make sure that the small wick hole is completely sealed on the mold and be make sure not to let any water drops from a double boiler get into the wax as you are stirring.
Either the wick is getting clogged from additives or too much dye, or your wick is too small.
Try a larger wick and cut back on dye.
There can be several reasons for this. Either the wick is too large, there is air in the candle or the flame is too high. You can remedy this by trying a smaller wick, using a higher pouring temperature and remembering to poke holes around the wick to help with the shrinkage. Always keep the wick trimmed to 1/4 inch.
The containers are too cold and the hot wax provokes a reaction when it hits the coldness of the jar. Try pre-heating the jars in the oven before pouring the wax into them. Always check that your glass jars are spotlessly clean before use as any dirty marks will also show up on your finished candle. It is possible to use a heat gun or hair dryer to re-heat the outside of the jars and get rid of the wet spots.
This happens when you are using too much vybar. Cut back a little and it should fix the problem.
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If you have questions about candlemaking, please direct them to me at
candlequestions@deelights.com.
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